Category: Québec

  • Quietly Quebec: French Canadians in Vermont

    Quietly Quebec: French Canadians in Vermont

    I’ve been thinking lately about two seemingly unconnected conversations. The first was with a friend, an immigration lawyer, who said that since Canada passed Law C-3 her business has been overrun with Americans applying for Canadian citizenship (C-3 eliminates the “first-generation limit”). The second conversation was with another friend who is married to a rural-born Quebecer who grew up in a lively farm family. She was observing how his family events were centred around the kitchen, not the living-room or parlor. Meals were served on the kitchen table and after a big feast, like Easter, everyone would push back their chairs to the walls and then the afternoon would be filled with conversation. For me there was a resonance in what she was saying.

    In the 1950s, in the hills of central Vermont, I was told I was growing up in “Yankee” country. The word rolled easily off adult tongues, summoning a picture of stone walls, maple sugaring, town meetings, and old leathery New England families who had been there forever. I hadn’t been, but that’s incidental to this story. When I think back, when I really replay what went on in those school corridors, walk into those kitchen-shed entrances, and sit at the kitchen tables in my mind, what I see and hear feels far less purely “Yankee” and much more like a quiet, unacknowledged extension of rural Quebec.

    An amusing (and unlikely) pair – a Peugot 504 (vintage 1950s) and a much earlier Ford truck – placeholders for French/Yankee duality – in the apple orchard of an old Vermont hill-farm (photo taken 1972).

    Many of my classmates were not Yankees at all. They were the children of Quebecers, families who had moved south over the border in search of work, trading rocky Quebec farm fields and the poor economy for Vermont’s mills and small factories. Their parents still spoke French at home, still had filet crocheted bible scenes on their walls, still crossed themselves instinctively, still held onto Catholic feast days and family rituals, even as their children sat beside me behind desks reciting the Pledge of Allegiance in English.

    The geography encouraged a kind of illusion. Compared with Quebec, with its broad St. Lawrence valley and wide fields, most of Vermont is hill country. The farms that still existed in those days were small and coughed up a lot of rocks, more a patchwork of cleared land between forests than the sweeping agricultural vistas one imagines when one says “farm.” Yet many of the people working those small farms, or supplying labor for the mills, had roots that ran straight back to Quebec. On paper, in town histories and news-stories, it might have been called “Yankee Vermont.” On the ground, it was something more complicated: a hybrid of old New England and transplanted rural Quebec, stitched together by rivers, roads, and the hum of machinery.

    The mills were the real magnets. They were scattered along Vermont’s rivers, some still visibly tied to the old water power era with raceways and old brick, others already retooled and electrified. In those years, they wove cotton and wool cloth, most of it rough, and a little further south (along the larger rivers) manufactured industrial parts. They were not glamorous places, but the work was steady, and they needed hands. Hands came from the hills and from across the border.

    So, in my grade school classroom, many of the desks were filled with kids whose grandparents had been farmers in Quebec, whose parents now worked for businesses in the town or the mills that bordered it. Many of them bore names that had been smoothed into English, as if the crossing of the border had required passing through a kind of linguistic customs warp. A “Leblanc” became “White.” Sometimes the change was deliberate. Other times, it seemed to have been imposed by immigration bureaucrats who simply wrote what they could pronounce. It was as if the name itself had to be pushed into shape to fit the idea of America. I knew the drill.

    Late spring and scrounging up the dregs of the woodpile.

    Some of my friends embraced that shaping. They practised their English carefully, and worked hard, as I did, to appear fully “American.” When you’re a child, you are acutely aware of the small signals that mark you as different, and you quickly learn to sand down those edges. When we were older we learned to call it racism. Others, though, held on to more of their ancestral life. They disappeared from play on certain feast days, learned their catechism, and later, in adolescence, you might see them slipping off to the large Catholic church that we never entered. Their houses felt different when you stepped inside: religious images on the walls, perhaps a rosary hanging from a nail, and often a sense that English was something you spoke for the outside world, not in the kitchen.

    Coming back to the kitchen and my friend’s description of her husband’s family gatherings. To me it always felt like the kitchen was the next room after the shed. First you went through the shed, a kind of transition area that had the sweet smell of split drying wood, moist earth, and wet wool. Then the was the warm kitchen, with a stove crackling and the smell of food being cooked.

    But what really registered with me was pushing the chairs back, making a ring of people rather than a scattered group. I always liked being there. At the time, I understood those families as simply “farm families,” (though that wasn’t the way my parents described them). Only later did I understand how many of them were not just “country people,” but Quebecois by origin, bringing with them patterns of family life shaped north of the border.

    Of course, we did not have the language of “Franco-Americans” or “diaspora” for this; the word that floated around instead was “Frenchies,” often used with a derisive and mean edge. It was the sort of racist nickname that passed as normal in those days. The implication was that the “real” Vermonters, the real Americans (which I felt excluded from too), were the Yankees, and the “Frenchies” were a kind of tolerated, but alien, presence. Yet, in reality, Quebec immigrants made up a large portion of the local population – fifteen to twenty-five percent, by some estimates – and their influence seeped into the “Yankee” culture.

    As a child, I absorbed both the prejudice and the intimacy without fully understanding either. I heard the jokes and the slurs, but I also knew that the kid sitting next to me with a “funny name” (like mine!) was the one I skied with after school, or the one whose mother handed me a plate of food when I was a visitor. The contradiction was simply part of the air we breathed. We were caught between the received story – Vermont as a bastion of old Yankee stock – and the lived reality of a mixed, evolving community where Quebec was a silent but important part of the mix.

    Lately, hearing about law C‑3 and how it has opened the door for Americans with a Canadian parent or grandparent (or even further back) to claim Canadian citizenship, I find myself thinking about those classmates and their families. Many of them, I suspect, would now qualify to move back up here with little trouble. What strikes me is how, in the 1950s, the direction of movement was almost entirely one way: people came from Quebec to Vermont to work, to be American, to give their children a future “down south.” The border itself felt more like a one-way bridge than a shared threshold. Now, that’s changed.

    With C‑3, the current is running the other way. Americans are trying to reclaim or confirm a Canadian identity they only vaguely knew they had before, or even tried to conceal. Underneath the legal arguments – who qualifies, what documents are needed, how far back descent can run – I sense an echo from my childhood days. The law is new, but the story is old: families shifting across the invisible line that cuts through the hills and fields, children caught between languages and loyalties, names bending to fit whichever side of the border they find themselves on.

    For me I’m much more aware now that the most striking realization is not just that Vermont in the 1950s was more French Canadian than anyone wanted to admit, but that the ways people tried to appear “American” were often layered on top of habits and values that remained stubbornly, quietly Quebecois. The kitchen as the centre of family life. The chairs pushed back to make room for talk. The insistence on gathering everyone around a table, not just for the meal, but for the hours afterwards, when stories and teasing and small arguments stitched a family and friends together.

    In retrospect, that gesture of pushing back the chairs feels almost like a metaphor for the whole period. Publicly, the chairs of identity were lined up neatly: Yankee, American, English-speaking. Privately, inside the kitchens, they were rearranged, pushed back to the walls, making space for another way of being together – more communal, more rooted in the rhythms of Quebec than the official story would allow. I grew up in that in-between space, in some ways wanting to believe I was part of “Yankee Vermont” while actually feeling more comfortable sitting in kitchens surrounded by people whose lives had been shaped by the culture of where is my home now.

    Now, as Americans look north for citizenship rights and legal recognition, I find myself looking back instead – back to those kitchens and classrooms full of children with anglicized names and hidden bilingual homes. The border that seemed so definitive on maps was far more porous than we were taught. We didn’t then have the words or the awareness to describe it.

  • Unfiltered Montreal

    Montreal is a city that refuses to be reduced to picture postcard clichés. Here, the gritty dep and styled food-market, the narrow ruelles and the wide boulevards, the laughter and longing, all exist side by side, unposed and unrehearsed. Montreal Unfiltered is an invitation to witness the city as it truly breathes: raw, restless, and radiant in its imperfection.
    These photographs trace the pulse beneath the surface, capturing moments where the city’s true spirit flickers – in the crunch of a cyclist powering through snow at night, in the quiet dignity of a solitary reader, in the small sidewalk flower plots and community gardens. This is a city of contradictions: winter’s hush and the noisy summers, solitary figures and crowded streets, languages colliding and coexisting.
    Let these images draw you into Montreal’s daily poetry – its grit and grace, its shadows and sudden bursts of color. Here, nothing is staged, nothing is concealed. This is Montreal, seen not through a filter, but through the honest lens of life itself.

  • The Pope is coming

    The Basilica de Santa Maria de Guadalupe In the center of the photo, this enormous circular Basilica will be one of the places where Pope Francis celebrates Mass on his trip to Mexico. In Mexico City he will also visit a children’s hospital and celebrate mass further north, in a poor part of the city. The tippy Cathedral right center was built about 1700 and goes every which way – courtesy of the soft soil and multiple earthquakes. It’s odd and a bit exciting to be inside a building that is so askew.

     

    Outside the Metropolitan Cathedral on Palm Sunday, 2015.

     

    Mass in the Metropolitan Cathedral Taken at Easter Mass in April 2015.

     

    These ads are currently appearing all over the city on telephone booths.

     

    I haven’t seen many images of the Pope defaced, but these were, rather prominently.

     

    Detail of Diego Rivera Mural Rivera painted a powerful set of murals depicting the history of Mexico between 1929 and 1935 on the walls of the National Palace, where the Pope will be officially greeted.

     

    Archbishop Norberto Rivera Carrera after Sunday Mass, Mexico City, 2014. After the Pope is greeted in the National Palace by the Mexican President, he goes across the Zócalo kitty-corner to the Metropolitan Cathedral (where this photo was taken) where he will meet with the Mexican clergy.

     

    Lottery tickets being sold on the street the week before the Pope’s visit.

     

    Poster on the street outside the Metropolitan Cathedral This photo was taken in 2013 when Pope Benedict was still alive.

     

    About eight years ago, as part of my application for Canadian residency, I was required to submit my American Social Security card. As a child I remembered having the piece of paper, but hadn’t seen it for about forty years so I had to get a duplicate. It’s not something that an American citizen would have to do too often; most people know their Social Security number by heart and that’s about all that’s required.

    Burlington is Vermont’s only true city (small still) and the office I had to go to was there. I was a little shocked at what I saw. Vermont state offices tend to be relatively friendly places. Not exactly small town, but perhaps small state. This was a federal office and not only was it protected by guards, but it had small holes for talking to the “service” representatives and many written rules posted in the small waiting space. And guess what? Most of the people there were immigrants.

    I got used to the idea of being an immigrant in the long process of applying for first residency and then citizenship in Canada. The idea that you are special – that you don’t have to go to these types of offices – pretty well melts away. But in the US if you are a born citizen you hardly ever have to notice what happens to people who aren’t. Some of the places to look, if you are interested, are at the larger land border crossings or at traffic stops, where skin color and legal status often become determining factors of how you are treated. Another place it’s in your face is should you take a bus across the border, where people are basically sorted by their appearance, before even the presentation of documents.

    Being an immigrant myself in Canada has made me a lot more sensitive when I see people having trouble. I think that if you haven’t been an immigrant it’s difficult to understand what it’s like. What it’s like to learn a whole new culture, to be in a country where perhaps you have no real roots other than being there.

    We have been lucky to have a core of people who have become friends, some close friends, by virtue of us having joined an Anglican parish in Montreal. We were drawn to this specific parish originally because of the outstanding music, but in the eleven years we’ve been part of this community there’s been much more than the music holding us there – and that’s not to downplay the music at all.  I’ve many other reasons to be there and also what Christianity’s good side is. But it’s not all easy – being a member of a church in Quebec is akin to having leprosy. The Catholic church abused Quebecers, and they returned the favor by abandoning the organized church with a vengeance. Most of the swear words in Quebec are church-derived, and being involved in any sort of church-related activity raises hives for many of our acquaintances and friends.

    It might be surprising to note that quite a few of the people in the Anglican community I’m speaking about are Francophones born in Quebec. Obviously they are of a different stripe to be doing what they are doing, but so too are the rest of us. This parish, which is actually housed in the large downtown cathedral, has had a long history of social activism, and early on put up a large rainbow flag. The flag is not quite so controversial now but still periodically some unhappy person comes into the Cathedral and tries to tear it down. But it would be hard to tear down the tolerance and evolving understanding that’s part of why we have belonged to this parish, and why it’s meant so much to me.

    I say this by way of introducing what will be happening in the next few days with the visit of the Pope to Mexico City. I don’t know enough to write a long intelligent commentary about the relationship of the Catholic Church to Mexico. I’ve seen so much, and so little. We’ve gone to services at the small parish church in the neighbourhood nearby, we’ve gone to fancy services in the Metropolitan Cathedral, we’ve watched and noted a lot of behavior, we’ve read. But it’s the same as applying for residency – I’m an outsider and will never really understand that much even in the big sense, much less the nuance.

    Please add your comments.

  • Un moment commun

    Marie visited a few days ago with her photos place-marked into How Many Roads? Not so many minutes after we started going over them we were laughing so hard we were almost crying. Our parents must have been so proud of us! Here she writes:

    Nice corn, Marie.
    Marie in her Québec garden, circa 1971

    Pourquoi ai-je été aussi touchée en voyant les photos de Jonathan?
    Elles m’ont ramenées directement vers les miennes de la même époque . J’ai eu un irrepressible besoin de fouiller dans mes vielles boîtes pour les retrouver, les comparer, les jumeler…
    C’est un moment commun… même si c’est de part et d’autre de la frontière.
    Avoir 20 ans dans les années 70, membre d’une cohorte très importante de jeunes en rupture avec un système politique et économique…la contre-culture!
    Nous nous distinguions dramatiquement de nos parents qui avaient vécu la crise et la guerre, nous étions plus insouciants, plus libres, plus créatifs, prêts à prendre plus de risques…
    Que sont nos amis devenus…que nous avions de si près tenus…et tant aimés… comme dans la complainte de Ruteboeuf
    Qu’est-ce qu’on a fait de nos rêves… comme le chantait si justement Sylvain Lelièvre…
    How many roads…
    On se retrouve aujourd’hui…peut-être moins nombreux…plusieurs ont déserté vers un confort trop douillet…
    Mais le désir d’un monde plus juste ne s’éteint pas